A month in wine - tasting June 2009

Old world, new world and a little outta this world tastings last week brought visitors to Vancouver from Australia, Chile, France, South Africa and the Okanagan...

South Africa a line-up of Shirazes

Boekenhoutskloof
It could be the most tongue-twisting winery name in the world to pronounce for non-Afrikaans speaking wine drinkers, but this four syllable word has a simple meaning. It translates to "ravine of the boekenhout", boekenhout being the name of a local birch tree.
Of course knowing what it means won't make it easier to pronounce initially, nor will it prevent you from rolling it off your tongue, time after time, when you finally do master it....
My Dutch father would pronounce it book-en-howds-kloof (or something that sounds like that ) so I'll stick with what dad says....

Marc Kent (right), winemaker and one of the six  Boekenhoutskloof partners, came through Vancouver on June 11 with a handful of Cape Shirazes to celebrate the 350th anniversary of wine making in South Africa. Three hundred and fifty years makes South Africa the oldest, new world wine making region in the world. It all started back in the mid-1600s when the Dutch East India Company set up a provision station for their ships
passing to the East. Positioning themselves in this fertile land of plenty, was also a strategic move to compete against the powerful shipping arm of the
Portuguese. Vines were first planted in 1652, cuttings from France, Spain and Germany, six acres in all, in Cape Town's botanical gardens (not unlike the first vines in Australia planted a couple hundred years later in Sydney's botanical gardens).
The rest is history...

I visited South Africa last fall for the Cape Wine Festival and even drove by Franschhoek (where Boekenhoutskloof is located) between stops in Paarl and Stellenbosch. Sadly I missed the winery under time constraints, but at least I was able to meet Marc and taste his wines recently, here in Vancouver. Boekenhoutskloof came about in 1993 launched by a group of wine enthusiasts.
In 1994 Marc Kent started, it was his first
winemaking job in fact, and today he is a partner in this award
winning, internationally acclaimed winery
.
South African Shiraz/Syrah tasting
The impressive similarities in these wines were their fragrant aromatics; crushed dark floral, cedar and sweet spices almost always with smoked, gamey or savoury undertones.

Excelsior Paddock Shiraz, 2006 on the more feminine side, with softer berry/cherry aromas, sweet tobacco and cedar hints with white pepper and secondary smoked/char aromas. Good acidity and fine tannins linger on the finish. $16

Glen Carlou Syrah, 2005 is a completely different beast from the
rest, with amarone-type qualities, dried fruits, cherries and vanilla, spice and leather undertones. Supple, chocolaty texture, a lot of acidity, elegant and quite powerful with chocolate and
spice lingering with dusty tannins. $30
read the review on winescores.ca here

Robertson Constitution Road Shiraz, 2005 this wine is lovely, a feminine, juicy style of Shiraz that was exciting to taste. Pretty floral and crushed red berry fruit, vanilla and sweet spices. Bright, juicy berries reappear on the palate, tannins are fine and powdery. $40

Mulderbosch Shiraz, 2004 if the Robertson was feminine, the Mulderbosch is masculine - intense, char meaty, spiced and cedar box, white pepper and dark fruit, roasted coffee beans and a heavily weighted with toasted oak and spice that lingers, but a good dose of acidity gives it some lift. $35

Thelema Mountain Shiraz, 2004 again, a very impressive, juicy feminne style of Shiraz. Raspberry and blueberry fruit,
vanilla and crushed flowers with cedar box and sweet oak
spice followed with game-y tones. The texture is gorgeous, supple. It is focused and quite powerful, spicy and juicy in the mouth with firm tannins on the finish. $35


Boekenhoutskloof wines
The Wolftrap, 2008 is a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and a drop of Viognier this well priced entry-level wine from Boekenhoutskloof has black cherry and plummy fruit,  a potpourri of cedar chips and dried flowers, smoke and sausage-y tones spiked with pepper. There is quite a dose of heat on the finish but the tannins
are integrated. Easy drinking and supple with a spicy/char finish.
$15 click here to see the current 2007 vintage review

Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 is a fresh, crisp white with some tropical citrus, grass clippings and gooseberry aromas. The palate is softly rounded, green and white fruit flavours and minerals and a mouth-watering finish.
$15 coming soon to private stores

Porcupine Ridge Syrah, 2007 is a very aromatic amalgamation of dark berries, crushed floral and cedar, spice, game and smoke, with bittersweet chocolate aromas. It is bright and juicy on the palate with drying tannins. $18

The Chocolate Block, 2007 is a blend of Syrah (55%), Grenache (20%), Cinsault (5%), Cabernet Sauvignon (16%) and Viognier from around SA. This is an icon wine with aromas of wild berries and cherry, cedar box and dried flowers, bittersweet chocolate and espresso. It has a lovely supple texture, smooth chocolaty flavours with secondary smoky, meaty aromas and flavours. Great acidity, fine tannins and spice linger on the finish. $45

Boekenhoutskloof Syrah, 2005 A stunning wine. Sweet purple berry, roasted, savoury aromas, spice and toffee. Opulent, with juicy fruit on the entry, it is elegant, an old-world style with finesse and complexity, the texture seduces your palate, cocoa and powdery tannins linger... $70
(in BC at 39th & Cambie LDB currently)


for more information on Boekenhoutskloof click here

Viña Morandé

Pablo Morandé launched this young winery, just over a decade ago, after being one of the chief winemakers at Concha Y Toro for many years. Considered to be one of Chile's top winemakers, Morandé is also recognized as the Pioneer of the venerated Casablanca Valley, known for it's suitability for cooler climate varietals (read more about Casablanca Valley) such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Morandé was the first to plant vines in this region, north of Santiago in 1980. His winery now owns 600 hectares of vineyards in five valleys, primarily concentrated in Casablanca and Maipo. From these regions Morandé produces about 600,000 cases of wine per year in their winery in the Rapel Valley, about 120 kilometers south of Santiago.


Morandé Pinero Rosé, 2008 is a blend of Syrah from Maule and Cabernet from Maipo Valley. It's a gorgeous pink/cranberry hue with very pretty aromatics of crushed floral, mixed berries and light spice. It is bright,
crisp on the palate with flavours of guava,
juicy red berries and citrus. A great value at $14


Morandé Pinero Sauvignon Blanc (read my recent review here)

Morandé Pinero Pinot Noir (read my recent review here)



Morandé Reserva Pinot Noir , Casablanca Valley Chile, 2007 shows amazing value at under $20. It is oozing raspberry, strawberry and violets with undertones of cedar box and spice. Again, loads of juicy raspberry on the palate, its silky and warm
with spice and chocolate shavings and cedar flavours
on the finish - delicious! $18



Morandé Reserva Carmenere, Maipo Valley, 2007 is ripe with black currents and cherry aromas, toffee and roasted green peppers and plenty of spice and chocolate undertones. The palate is supple, mouth-filling with creamy fruit, bitter-sweet chocolate, spice and roasted coffee bean flavours. The finish is smooth

For more information on Viña Morandé click here

The lineup from Some Young Punks makes drinking wine a more visual experience

 

Some Young Punks

I first wrote about Some Young Punks 'Passion Has Red Lips for CityFood in 2007. Sadly, I missed them during a recent trip down under to Clare so I'd not tasted the wines for a while. Since I had, the 'Young Punks' from Clare Valley Australia have added to their colorful repertoire of low brow literature/pulp fiction labels and ingenious blends.
The front man for the recent Vancouver visit, Dr. Colin McBryde (aka Col Punk), in recuperation from his new status as baby daddy, introduced me to his other babies, as well as the newest kids in the Punk's portfolio.
The thing I like the most about these 'punks' is their tounge-in-cheek marketing which literally blows everything else out of the water. But, as I said to Colin - the packaging will make them pick it up, the juice will make them come back. And he knows it. So, SYPs source their grapes from around South Australia; Adelaide Hills, Langhorne Creek, Barossa and McLaren Vale, creating fun blends that are entirely quaffable, and the best part, they all make you want to drink more...
The quantities are limited, they are a boutique producer after all, so you'll have to track these buxom beauties and monster wines, in private wine stores.

The T'n'T series based on the adventures of twins Trixie and Tessa Love. Not all are available here but these two are...

"Monsters, Monsters, Attack", 2008 will be replaced by the 2009 soon but this not-so-typical Clare Riesling has a bit more residual sugar but is entirely refreshing. The aromas are lime, marmalade and peach blossoms the palate is off-dry but cleans up on the finish. Delicious. about $30 private wine stores.

"The Squid's Fist", 2007 rocked with it's juicy blend of Sangiovese and Shiraz. Tar and roses, bright cherries and a hint of old-world earthy rusticity. Smooth yet as I mentioned, juicy, on the palate with plenty of berry/cherry flavours and leathery tones.
Yum! about $30 private wine stores

The Pulp Fiction Series

Drink'n Stick, 2007 is as Col Punk says, the most involved label in the world. But its also an interactive label that allows you to redress the pin-up girl in proper attire with the attached cello clothing. A blend of Mataro from Barossa (aka Mourvedre) and Mclaren Shiraz it smells and tastes of juicy maraschino cherries and lifted eucalyptus. As all of the SYP wines, it has lovely acidity that makes you think of food - unless your mouth is just watering because of the girl...
about $28 private wine stores.

"The Fire in Her Eyes", 2006 is a small production bottling of 50/50 blend of Cabernet and Dolcetto. It pops with aromas of purple berries, cherry and eucalyptus. It starts juicy and fresh then grows until you have quite a powerful wine with leather, cedar and spice lingering on the finish. The tannins are fine, dusty but grippy. about $30 private wine stores

"Quickie", 2007 is another small production bottling of 85% Nebbiolo from Barossa and Clare Shiraz. Its ruby in colour with cherries and plum, leather and some savoury undertones. It has a very appealing, supple texture, its fresh with great acidity and fine, spiced tannins on the finish. about $30 in private wine stores

"Passion Has Red Lips", 2007 is far better than the trailer trash label would suggest. This almost 50/50 blend of Cabernet and Shiraz has bright aromas of mint patty, crushed floral and chocolate cherries. On the palate it is tangy and spicy with punchy cherry flavours that'll make you pucker-up. Very good. about $30 private wine stores

For more info on the 'Punks' click here

Caliterra

Having missed them in Colchagua when I was there in Chile in November 2008, I was impressed to learn more about Caliterra's commitment to not only making good wine, but to sustainable and organic viticulture, eco friendly packaging and a belief in creating and supporting its local community.

Caliterra was launched in 1996 as a joint venture between Robert Mondavi and Eduardo Chadwick, until Chadwick (of Vina Errazuriz) purchased control in 2004. Winemaker Sergio Cuadra (right) came on board in 2006 and he was in Vancouver last week to talk about the strides Caliterra is making, leading the way in sustainable winemaking in the Colchagua Valley in Chile. It's an extremely positive story I am hearing as I travel to regions around the world.  Wine producers are taking responsibility for their footprint and deciding to lessen their impact on the planet - and on future generations.
Caliterra has an estate of over 1000 hectares and only one-third of that is (and will ever be according to Sergio) relegated to vineyards. Caliterra is also in "transition" to organic - a three year process until they can, if successful, have the organic certification printed onto their labels. They are also working with the University of Talca (in the nearby city of Talca) on improvements for sustainability as well as a certifiable protocol and guide to help other wineries, not only in Colchagua but around Chile become sustainable. With that, a certification process for sustainability will be available in Chile and eventually wineries will be able to state it on their labels. It's a lot of work, a massive undertaking but wholly important for current, and future generations.

Caliterra Wines available in Canada - Entry level wines

Caliterra Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca, 2008 is, in typical-Chilean style, less grassy and overt than a New Zealand style but fresh and easy drinking with loads of citrus guava and peachy notes with a crisp, clean finish.
$12.45 (on special $10.95 July 2009) BCLDB stores

Caliterra Reserva Merlot, 2007 is quite aromatic - a potpourri of cedar chips and crushed flowers, cherries and black berries with earthy undertones. Supple on the palate with black fruits and cocoa, good power but it's still juicy, and hint of bitterness on the finish with soft tannins. private wine stores about $13

Caliterra Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 has plenty of earthy/smoky aromas lifted with bright red fruit and black currents. It shows fresh, spiced dark fruit on the palate with fine, drying tannins. BCLDB $13.

Caliterra wines coming into the Canadian market soon

Caliterra Bio-Sur Reserva Especial Carmenere, 2008 This wine will be be certified organic in 2011 and features aromas of black cherries and red berries, some smoked/roasted aromas minerals and coffee. The palate has cherry and plush dark fruits, lifted acidity and roasted coffee bean flavours with a spiced, chocolaty finish. coming fall 2009 $NA

Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Carmenere, 2007 is an obvious step-up in complexity from the Bio-Sur with its sweet crushed floral and juicy dark berry aromas with cedar chips and toasted/smoked undertones. The palate is supple, sweet and quite powerful with tight firm tannins and lingering spice on the finish. coming summer 2009 private wine stores about $22

Caliterra Cenit, 2005 means the highest point in the sky (zenith) and is a blend of Cabernet, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Intense aromas of mixed dark and red berries, spice, crushed dark floral and creamy chocolate and roasted carob notes. The palate is supple, almost opulent with plenty of ripe fruit, bittersweet chocolate and spice. It's young but all the elements are in place and the structure is very good.
arrival fall 2009 about $70

For more information on Caliterra click here
Read more about Chile in my previous articles here

Louis Latour

...needs no introduction, this family-run, Burgundy-based French négotiant is a well recognized name world wide and produces some of the best value French wines on our shelves. Having been in the wine business for more than 210 years, they know their wine, and their vineyard sites. Latour produces wines from vineyards in Chablis, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits and Beaujolais in Burgundy and in Ardèche and the Côteaux de Verdon just atop the Rhone Valley.
Having recently switched their Canadian agent/importer to Mark Anthony Brands (based in Vancouver), Latour is hoping to remind consumers, almost reestablish their product,  with the help of their new representation. No doubt, with the amount of wines on restaurant lists and on shelves these days, it's never an easy task to compete. But, with the consistency of their wines and the value to be found in their Bourgogne Pinot Noir and Ardeche Chardonnay's it should be a slam-dunk for consumers who are looking for a little finesse and something more classic in their glass.

Louis Latour Chardonnay d'Ardèche, 2007 is a crisp, citrus-y and mineraly Chardonnay with soft acidity, a subtly rounded texture and just enough snap to pair extremely well with oysters or a summer salad $13.50 BCLDB

Louis Latour Chardonnay Grand Ardèche, 2006 shows the restrained power and finesse of the old-world with the intoxicating ripe tree and tropical fruit and caramel aromas of the new-world. It has a creamy, weighted texture, hints of ripe pear and vanilla, melon and sweet spice. The finish is still crisp though and it finishes with that lovely nutty/praline flavour I love in. Will only be available for a limited amount of time on BCLDB
shelves at a limited time offer of $14.

Louis Latour Pinot Noir Bourgogne, 2007 Shows classic fresh, bright red fruit and hints of herbs and forest floor. The palate features tart red fruit, cedar box and light spice. It's light bodied and perfect for light dinners and seafood lunches.

Louis Latour Marsannay, Côte de Nuits, 2006 Great value! The Marsannay is big step up from the Bourgogne but at a fraction of the price of the Corton Grancy (see below). It's a juicy blend of mixed berry and crushed floral notes and sweet, warm spices. The palate shows creamy spiced briary berries - especially raspberry and cedar box spices with bright acidity and an extended finish. coming soon - about $30.+ in private wine stores.

Louis Latour, Chateau Corton Grancey Grand Cru, Beaune Côte d'Or, 2005 makes me swoon with its seductive dark cherry/berry aromas, cedar box, sweet herbs, leather and forest floor undertones. Its almost opulent on the palate showing gobs of juicy, concentrated fruit and spice. The tannins are fine, dusty and mouth-filling. One for my cellar!
about $131.+ at private wine stores

Louis Latour Corton~Charlemagne Grand Cru, Côte d'Or, 2006 is a gorgeous example of a GC Chardonnay. With 2006 being a warm vintage the aromas are ripe - creamy roasted pears and quince, caramel praline and minerals. The palate is supple, round and laden with ripe fruit and light spices, it has minerality and roasted nutty flavours but the finish has plenty of crisp acidity and bright citric flavours. Elegant!
Coming soon - about $185.+ at private wine stores

Stag's Hollow Winery

It's been a while since I have seen Stag's Hollow co-owner Larry Gerelus.
It may be more than a decade actually. When my husband first moved to Vancouver - back when traveling to Okanagan Wine Country for the Thanksgiving long weekend was not so common - in 1996 we made our first trip to the Okanagan. It was adventure for us, we'd been to the Niagara Bench but this was new territory. It was also a new adventure for Larry and his wife Linda Pruegger who had only established their Stag's Hollow winery and tasting room the year before. In those early days both Linda and Larry manned the tasting room and the smallish crowds that arrived at their Okanagan Falls estate. Little did we know but on that first trip we were tasting the first vintage of Stag's Hollow and were some of the first visitors to cross the threshold. Of course, as we returned each fall, so did larger crowds, as the BC wine industry grew and wine tourism became more mainstream. Drinking wine was not enough, people wanted to travel to their own wine country and learn more - the rest as they say, is recent history...
Fast forward to 2006, after more than a decade of doing it themselves, Linda and Larry hired a winemaker named Dwight Sick. Formerly of Pentage, Dwight brought  with him technical experience and a strong sense of direction for the future wines of Stag's Hollow. The positive addition shows, a new view and new palate is never a bad thing for a small winery, and it seems that the groundwork already laid by Linda and Larry are what will make for a strong foundation for the future with a trained winemaker to push their boundaries.
Oh, and some great new labels are a very nice addition too. By updating, but keeping their recognizable stag and standard font, onto textured linen labels gives the wines an elegant new look.

Stag's Hollow Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 the Stag's Hollow SB has been their flagship wine and its as good as ever, albeit a hint drier (as the trend goes everywhere). Aromas of citrus blossoms and peachy/pineapple notes with plenty of minerality and secondary green aromas of grass clippings and snap peas. It has a lovely rounded edge to it (from very minimal oak fermentation and lees stirring) but tart citric and white fruit flavours and a mouth-watering finish. $20 at private wine stores and winery

Stag's Hollow Viognier, 2008 is a delicious, crip style of Viognier, so don't expect a tropical fruit bomb oozing mango and spice... Having talked Michael Bartier, winemaker from Road 13, out of a mere three tonnes of Viognier grapes (initially it was far less, only planned to blend with Syrah) Dwight was happy to make a small production run of single varietal Viognier. Aromas of green figs, peach skin and lemon drops with a sprinkling of spice. It is bright , yet smooth, on the palate with limon and figgy flavours and the spice pops up more in the mouth than on the nose. A long zesty finish with a hint of white pepper lingers on the finish. Very good paired with curried green bean and chick pea salad! $25.at private wine stores and winery

Stag's Hollow Renaissance Pinot Noir, 2006 is a substantial Pinot from the warm 2006 vintage. Dark berry fruits and ripe cherries some dried fruit notes and crushed floral with undertones of sweet spices. Good intensity on the palate with berries, chocolate, savoury herbs, earth, leather, cedar chips and spice. Great acidity and a smooth, fine grained texture. Impressive!
$35 + at private wine stores and winery

A glimpse into the future - these two following wines were samples I was able to try but don't expect to see them anytime soon - impressive wines!

Stag's Hollow Quattro IV, 2008 a Rhone-style blend of 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 3% Viognier and 2% Petit Verdot that winemaker Dwight Sick has an affinity for. The aromas pop out of the glass - fresh - fragrant floral and juicy cherry and forest berry with a hint of apricot, sweet spices and cocoa. Loads of juicy berry fruit on the palate entry with savoury herbs and spice growing more powerful toward the finish. Good acidity and very nice complexity - a baby of a wine that was only made in a handful of double magnums (6L).
Well done! Something to look forward to in future vintages...

Stag's Hollow Syrah, 2008 has 7% of that Viognier co-fermented in and it brings a juicy, floral, pretty lift to this Syrah. The colour is a bright purplish-hue, the aromas are crushed dark flowers, orange peel and purple berries with a pinch of pepper. The palate is silky, the acidity lifts the berry fruits and it finishes with a dusty, earthy texture and flavours of bittersweet chocolate. Elegant with great fruit and a much appreciated dose of acidity!
350 cases only, a fall 2009 release

For more information on Stag's Hollow click here