Drinking Italy - part 2 the south  Mount Etna
Posted June 11 2008
By Daenna Van Mulligen


Sicily (Sicilia)
I have Sicilian family, so I grew up thinking that Italy was Sicily.
When you grow up in the middle of the Canadian prairies having Sicilian relatives makes for a far more interesting childhood than most. My uncle Vince (Vincenzo) and his three brothers made regular trips into Winnipeg to find items as close to “home” as they could.
I remember how I loved eating pasta made from sauce that had been simmered all day with pork ribs. The salty, tomato-y sauce absorbed the flavour of the ribs and then the ribs – served separately - literally fell off the bone when you ate them. Uncle Vince would top his spaghetti with loads of grated fresh Romano cheese and I would follow suit. I tasted everything he put in front of me – even the rubbery tentacles of the octopus I shockingly stumbled upon one day – soaking in the kitchen sink. I ate sardines and snails and crisp fennel salads. I dipped parmesan and breadcrumb crusted artichoke leaves in butter and would root around in the fridge for a taste of Mortadella, hung pear-shaped provolone, spicy green olives and oily marinated artichokes. Christmas dinner was an interesting (and by no means ordinary) night-long feast featuring a mélange of everything from shellfish and lasagna to turkey and butter tarts. To this day when I go home, there’s always plenty of food around that kitchen and home made wine in that basement.
But, I never got to know the wines of Sicily until many years later. My Uncle would make wine from whatever juice he could find; Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio….

Now of course, I can purchase white wines made with Ansonica (Inzolia), Carricante, Chardonnay, Grillo, Cararratto, Malvasia or Trebbiano and reds made from Aleatico, the Cabernets, Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Negrello, Merlot and Syrah.
Two of the most recognized producers in this region – producers who brought attention to the wines of Sicily are Cusumano and Planeta. Both have several vineyard sites around Sicily in order to capture the diverse terroir around the Island and both have wines available in BC Liquor Stores.


an unprecedented tasting of the great 1997 reds of Italy

During a recent trip to Verona, I was able to take part in an unprecedented tasting of 1997 vintage wines from some of the top wine houses in Italy. Planeta was one of those wineries – we tasted their 1997 Santa Cecilia, IGT – its first vintage - which was produced using grapes from Planeta’s Sambucca Vineyard. A blend of 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Syrah it smelled of fresh and dried cherries with a fresh mineral undertone. It had more cherry on the palate followed with cedar, sweet spices and fine but firm tannins - delicious wine for a first attempt and still fresh at a decade old.

But the wines that impressed me with their cord of typicity were those from Etna. The DOC of Etna is only 2500 hectares within the province of Catania. It's a minerally rich “C” shaped region surrounding Mount Etna on the far eastern side of Sicily. Here, the main varietals are Nerello Mascalese (red) and Carricante (white) which grown in this region impart aromas and flavours that reminiscent of the dark, volcanic soil.

I tasted fresh, 2007 Etna Bianco (must be at least 60% Carricante and up to 40% Cataratto) DOC whites from Gambio Maria and Barone di Villagrande. I also tasted delicious, unique Etna Rosso DOC reds (must be minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese and can be up to 20% Nerello Mantellato- Nerello Cappuccio) from Patria called the Torrepalino Riserva and one from Gruppo Nicosia. But like all regions in Italy, some producers are experimenting with non-native varietals which allows them IGT status like the Tenute Chiuse del Signore Sicilia Rosso, made from 70% Nerello Mascalese and 30% Merlot.
 
Although these wines may be available in Canada I was unable to track them down so I have some alternative choices to recommend from Sicily.
 
From Cusumano you’ll be able to find a fine selection in BC The Nero d’Avola and the white Insolia as well as the Syrah for about $18-$42.
As with Planeta, their La Segreta Bianco and Rosso, Syrah and Chardonnay are available in BCLDB stores from $20-$50. In Ontario the Planeta Bianco and Rosso ring in at under $16.

And also from Sicily, the very tasty Feudo Arancio Grillo and Feudo Arancio Syrah from Mezzacorona will impress you for under $16 in Alberta, Manitoba and BC and under $11 in Ontario.

To read the reviews from Feudo Arancio click on bottles 

Sardinia (Sardegna)
This enchanting island is the second largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily) off the western coast of Italy. It's separated from the more northerly island of Corsica only by the narrow Strait of Bonifacio. It’s a rugged mountainous island with a typical Mediterranean climate of mild winters and dry, hot summers Vermentino di Gallura holds the only DOCG on Sardinia, this region is located at the top of the island and the 19 DOC’s include; Malvasia, Moscato, Nuragus, Nasco, Cannonau, Malvasia and Vernaccia spread around the island.

In the very south-west will find Cantina Santadi in a region called Sulcis not far from the stunning beaches of Porto Pino. Santadi focuses on the traditional grape varietals of the region  - Carignano, Vermentino, Nuragus and Nasco.
Santadi Whites - The super-fresh Villa Solais Vermentino de Sardegna 2007 DOC is floral and tropical blend primarily of Vermentino with a bit of Nuragus added. It has a lush texture and zippy acidity. The Cala Silente 2007 DOC that I tasted recently while in Italy was a nice revisit for me. The Cala Silente is 100% Vermentino has gorgeous creamy orchard fruit and mineral aromas with a ripe, silky mouth-feel and fresh, spiced finish. And finally, the Villa di Chiesa 2006 IGT from the Valli di Porto is a sweetly spiced, butterscotch and floral blend of Vermentino and barrel fermented then lees stirred Chardonnay. Santadi Reds – the Grotta Rossa Carignano del Sulcis 2006 DOC is made from 100% Carignan with earth and ripe fruit – blackberry and cherry with rustic leather, meaty and barnyard aromas showing flavours of sweet spice, pepper and coffee with dusty tannins and attractive minerality. The Terre Brune Carignano del Sulcis Superiore 2004 DOC has a touch of Bovaleddu added and shows an elegant and powerful red wine with ripe fruit, cocoa, coffee and still powerful tannins.
I also loved the Shardana 2004 IGT a blend of Carignano and Syrah that smells of earth and sweet cherries and has a creamy palate with elegant layers of chocolate, spice, earth and a hint of dried fruits
In select regions in Canada the Santadi Cala Silente,Grotta Rossa and Terre Brune
are available as well as the Shardana IGT.

In Ontario you can also find the Santadi Tre Torre Carignano Rosé on the LCBO shelves for about $16. Across Canada you can find these wines represented by Empson Canada.

Another favorite producer of mine is Cantine Arigolas – a family run business whose wines can be found locally. The Arigolas vineyards are located in the south-east and south-west (near Porto Pino).
Arigolas produces white wines – primarily Vermentino with some Nasca and Malvasia, and red wines from Cannonau, Monica, Carignano and Bovale Sardo with some Sangiovese.
To read the tasting notes on the Arigolas Perdera Monica de Sardinia and the Arigolas S'elegas Nuragus di Cagliari click on the bottle.

Campania
the stunning Campania Pavilion at Vinitaly - which way is up?

Campania is located at the front arch of the boot of the Italian Peninsula.
It borders Apuglia to the north-east and Basilicata to the east and is home to the city of Naples and the small island of Capri. Campania has one DOCG – Taurasi which is a hilly region fairly central in the province, east of Naples - and 18 DOC’s. Sadly we don’t see enough wines from Campania but two delicious options to look for are white wines; Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avelino a crisp, fruity and quite savoury wine available in BC Liquor Stores and the harder to find Porta di Mola Yellow Cello made from Falanghina, a honeyed, rich version of this varietal that you can track at very select private wine stores in BC.
 

In BC the Feudi di San Gregorio wines retail for
between $25 (for the Primitivo Maduria) to $99 for
the Serpico Aglianico and for around $17 you
can purchase the Greco di Tufo in Ontario through the LCBO.

Apulia (Puglia)
Puglia is the heel of the Italian Peninsula boot – Puglia is a long narrow, mostly flat region with rocky soil and is home to 25 DOC’s. Perhaps the most famed of the grape varietals here is the grandfather to Zinfandel – Primitivo.
 
a line-up of wines from A Mano

Although there are a dizzying number of wineries in Puglia, one of my favorite producers is A Mano, a winery near Taranto on the west side of the heel.
Born in Ontario, co-owner Mark Shannon made wine in California before falling in love, not only with Italy but with fellow winemaker Elvezia Sbalchiero. Together they built Amano (meaning: by hand). Their modern labels, screw-cap closures and easy drinking yet elegant wines represent a modern twist on Italian winemaking. This style is very appealing to new world consumers who find Italian wines either confusing, and or intimidating. Their Amano Primitivo is warm, juicy and spicy and their A Mano “Bianco” is a delicious, aromatic blend of Fiano and Greco di Tufo are available in private wine stores in BC and Alberta for about $20 (or less) and in the LCBO for under $16.

Also from Puglia you will find the wines of Tormaresca -
a winery established by Marchesi Antinori in 1998.
The Tormaresca wines can be found in BC starting at  about $12 for the Paiara Rosso and up to $40 for the Masseria Maime Negroamaro. In Alberta a more limited selection of the Tormaresca wines can be found around the $10 range.

The Tormaresca Chardonnay is golden and delicious for under $15 in BC.
The Tormaresca Neprica is a rustic and earthy blend with loads of dark fruit also for under $15.
For reviews on these two wines click on the bottles.

Another tasty option available in
private wine stores in BC is the Santo 'Orsola "35 Parallelo" Primitivo, Salento for around $15.

Coming next – in July – Drinking Italy part 3 - central